Aidan McCormack explores ancient Irish culture, natural beauty, and activity holidays in the north-west
When the buildersof the Megalithic structures in Sligo finished their work, they must have leaned back, breathed out and felt a great sense of satisfaction at their handywork. After honouring their ancestors and their Gods they surely peered out over the uniquely beautiful Sligo landscape and felt the same sense of awe and wonder that any visitor to this remarkable county does today.
Luckily, some of these unique passage tombs and dolmens survive to this day and the dense concentration of them around Sligo gives a taste of the layer upon layer of history and culture crammed into the north-west of Ireland.
County Sligo has the richest concentration of prehistoric monuments in Western Europe, with over 5,000 archaeological sites, including Carrowmore, the largest megalithic cemetery in Ireland.
Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery (above) near the coastal surfing village of Strandhill, just outside Sligo town provides the opportunity to walk amongst those ancient monuments that are older than Egypt’s pyramids.
Last year they welcomed over 35,000 visitors from around the world.
This stunning site will see significant investment from September when work starts on a new visitor facility and experience for opening in next Spring.
The Passage Tomb landscape of Sligo also includes Carrowkeel in the Bricklieve Mountains in south Sligo and is on UNESCO World Heritage’s Tentative list.
It is just one of many sites in Sligo that is enjoying transformation so that visitors can feel and touch the depths of Irish history and immerse themselves in stunning natural beauty.
Other popular Wild Atlantic Way destinations south of Galway can be victims of their own success.
So much so that many visitors now want to avoid the congestion and crowds to be found there by looking north.
Sligo is a walkers’ paradise with a focus on activity and adventure, wellness, and well-being.
The local authority has developed a network of over sixty walking trails and hikes from the mountains and the coast, to rolling hills and picturesque towns.
Benbulben is a popular 3.5-mile (90 minute) loop trail near Carney, County Sligo suitable for all abilities and very popular for birding, hiking, and running.
Its name comes from the original ‘Binn’ (peak or mountain) and ‘Ghulbain’ (beak or jaw and is thought to refer to Conall Gulban who died circa 464). Gulban was associated with the mountain and was a son of Niall Noígiallach of the Nine Hostages, and a founder of the kingdom of Tír Chonaill (Donegal).
Sligo Walks has created walking and hiking options for all abilities (www.sligowalks.com) accompanied by a dedicated app, superb website and detailed printed maps.
One of its flagship routes is the Queen Maeve Trail on Knocknarea Mountain (below) which arrives at the striking stone cairn that, according to legend, holds the remains of the mythical warrior Queen of Connacht Maeve (Medb) of Táin Bó Cúailnge fame (the Cattle Raid of Cooley) in the Ulster Cycle of Irish mythology.
There are breath-taking views from the summit to reward the effort.
They include the world class links golf courses of Strandhill and Rosses Point (below).
Strandhill, which lies below Knocknarea, is Ireland’s national surf centre.
It is a modern facility with showers, toilets and changing facilities for anyone wanting to enjoy water sports and daily surf lessons – all of which can be booked on site. See www.nationalsurfcentre.com.
The wild coastline continues westward to provide even more water sports.
Both Enniscrone and Easkey offer plenty of surf and SUP (Stand Up Paddle) activities as well as beach yoga.
The village of Coolaney has the National Mountain Bike Centre and a network of purpose-built trails.
There are routes suitable for all abilities, from gentle descents to hair raising, exhilarating black grade (severe) trails suitable for expert mountain bikers with a high-level of fitness.
They are exhilarating.
This significant investment in tourism facilities and attractions is an attempt to do justice to Sligo’s unique cultural rhythms.
It is complemented by a busy calendar of festivals and events that focus on the arts, culture, Sligo’s musical heritage – and of its delicious food.
A new public plaza has been created in the heart of Sligo town, on the banks of the gorgeous Garavogue River.
Queen Maeve Square, which has been the venue for many concerts and events, will host the new Taste of Sligo food festival on 21-22 September.
It will bring the very best of Sligo food and drink producers to one place, showcasing the county’s remarkable food heritage.
The name Sligo/Sligeach, which dates back 6,000 years, is synonymous with shellfish or molluscs – Sligeach means ‘shelly place’ or ‘abundant in shells’.
Those builders of Carrowmore, who knew then it was special, would recognise plenty of what still remains in Sligo today.
It is time for the rest of the world to find that out for themselves.
This magical part of the Wild Atlantic Way is only a 30-minute drive from Ireland West Airport at Knock.
There are flights every day from London (Aer Lingus and Ryanair).
For more information or if you’re planning a visit, take a look at the official tourism website, www.sligo.ie
Aidan McCormack is Tourism Officer for Sligo County Council
